I think it is no secret that Jerusalem and today remains a stumbling block to each other alien worlds and cultures. This conflict has been going on for thousands of years and hardly anything in the near future will change here. The city is still divided into western and eastern part of not only geographically.Here there is an invisible, but quite tangible boundary between the Jewish and Arab part of the city, between Western and Eastern civilizations. It just so happened that the two nights spent in this ancient city, we lived in a hotel located in the heart of Arab neighborhood of Bab A-Zahra just a few hundred meters from the Damascus Gate leading into the heart of the Old Town. The thrill of staying here were very bright and a bit messy. And I'd like them to share.
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My choice of accommodations was quite conscious. Prices for hotels in the Arab quarter is lower and the quality of services is higher than in similar institutions situated in Jewish areas. In addition, the location of our hotel could be called ideal because of the proximity of all the major attractions. But were here and its pitfalls ...
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We arrived late, a lot of time spent on the design of the machine, so in the Jerusalem we were already past midnight.
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I knew that with navigation in Arab neighborhoods may cause problems, so try to remember the route in advance by Google Maps. And yet, turning off the road into the town center, we almost immediately lost.
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Many Israeli rental offices consciously give navigators without maps of Palestine and the disputed territories. Needless to say there on our machines you do! Strange position, given that Israel has long considered Jerusalem the undivided capital of the state. But the reality is far from ideal.
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The other day I saw the movie, as wandered whether accidentally, or deliberately to provoke several Hasidic (Jewish religious orthodoxy) in appropriate attire Arab teenagers throughout their way through enemy territory kicked, pushed, poured mud and threw debris. And all this happened in the midst of daylight and most recently. And no one dared to stand up for them.
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Such mockery, of course, rare. The tourists here are generally considered sacred cows. Arabs are very well aware that all their guests need to cherish.Well, I do not know.
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Your hotel in the night I was looking for about an hour and found it likely some third sense. Seasoned travelers know for sure what it is and how to help out in difficult situations. In the dark streets of Arab neighborhoods looked completely deserted, too dark and not very welcoming.
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One good thing - even in the third hour of the night is no problem with the settlement, and we had no parking. But in the morning to a rich and tasty breakfast we began to understand the full flavor of the local lifestyle.
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It was interesting to watch the Arab students hurrying to school. This school was located just outside the walls of the hotel. Girls are strictly separated from the boys, go to classes only after the common prayer. And for the older girls compulsory hijab.
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It is only by going beyond the hotel, we were in continuous chaos shops, stalls and shopping stalls.
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Brisk trade here goes from morning until late evening. Morning traditional Arab pastry dusk replaced hot meats.
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But the center of all trade from the Arabs concentrated in the medieval walls of the Old Town. Here almost every corner, every available space in the central streets of the busy trade counter.
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Selling everything from spices to socks indiscriminately. You can feel the lack of understanding or even a sharp rejection of the chaos on the sacred ground for millions of people. But personally, I experienced some feelings ...
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Bazaar existed here for thousands of years, and the Arabs only support steady long ago tradition. His presence they bring bright colors and exuberant life in all the historical places of the city.
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On the streets of the Arab part of Jerusalem affects a large number of cats and dogs complete lack. Why is it so difficult to answer ...
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And sometimes we had the feeling of a miracle waiting. As if something is about to happen and incredible supernatural ...
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Old city is divided into four parts - Christian, Jewish, Armenian and Muslim. But the streets are almost universally ruled by Arabs. After all, she tells them to trade their faith.
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Observant traveler will notice on the Arab streets lots of interesting details.
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Men Arabs never go along with their women. Them, regardless of age and condition, always go ahead, trying not even touch each other.
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All retail shops also contains exclusively by men, sometimes even teenagers. Only occasionally the local old ladies selling all greens, sitting alone on the steps.
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And the Arabs masters to every kind of installation of the objects of his trade. For example, from spices to attract a potential buyer can create grandiose structures.
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Over a number of buildings in the Arab part of the city, I noticed a strange pattern probably somehow related to the Muslim religion. Can tell by anyone what they mean?
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In the city we've seen gyms, but for obvious reasons there trains exclusively male population.
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In his spare time, Arabs trade spend for smoking hookah and talking "for life." Of course, and women have no place here.
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Arab streets of Jerusalem, we felt a bit alien guests. Especially that feeling intensified when the evening we decided to walk to the Jewish side of the city.
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After steaming shauarm kebabnyh and eateries with dark alleys and frightening piles of rubbish on the roadside, just by clicking a wide street with tramway, we magically found themselves completely in another city.
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Clean streets, filled with life restaurants and pubs, many young people, and most importantly a huge number of couples holding each other's hands.
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Surprisingly, only a few minutes ago, we did not even dare to walk arm in arm with his wife. Anyway, after dark on the streets of Arab women is rare.
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That evening we saw two completely dissimilar Jerusalem. I am not going to judge anyone here. Every people live by their rules. But I noticed a huge gulf between these two worlds. And if all household differences can be smoothed, the spiritual chasm between two very different cultures, probably never pass away.
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On the other hand, this is the Jerusalem - a controversial, non-stereotypical, contrast - will always be of interest to all visitors.
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And I'm glad that travelers and tourists are always welcome on both sides of the invisible fence. This city razor sharp cuts in memory forever. And, despite all the controversy, here is why it pulls back again and again ...
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